The Long Shirt is having it’s moment thanks to the internet.
Whether it be online, on the streets or on your favorite blogger’s blog, Long Shirts are popping up more and more, and rightfully so because if worn correctly, the Long Shirt can be your go-to piece this Fall/Winter.
What I like about the long shirt is that it adds another dimension to your wardrobe. I’ve always liked this pic of Daiki up top and how he wears the long shirt underneath a shorter jacket. Proportions are key here and no one does the long shirt better right now than Engineered Garments in my humble opinion.
Each of these guys pictured up above are great examples/references of how to wear a long shirt. And who knows, if you buy this long shirt from Engineered Garments, you too can finesse your way into being photographed by Tommy Ton.
Hypebeast recently featured an article on 3Sixteen’s newest unsanforized and untreated Kibata Jean. It’s a great read showcasing the care, craftsmanship, and attention to detail 3Sixteen puts into all of their products.
Check out an excerpt from the article below, and be on the lookout as we introduce more products from 3Sixteen in the coming months.
The fabric itself should be the first thing any discerning customer pays attention to when examining a pair of jeans in person. All our denim is custom woven to our exact specifications in Okayama, Japan by Kuroki Mills. They have specialized in denim production for over 40 years and are one of only two mills in Japan that does all their indigo dyeing under one roof. It’s important to us that the denim we use cannot be found on any other jeans in the world. While many construction details are tried and true and utilized by many brands, we believe our denim is what distinguishes our jeans from the rest.
The fabric you’re looking at is our newest development, a 14oz. unsanforized denim that we have coined “kibata” which is the Japanese word for loomstate. This means that the fabric is completely untouched once it comes off the shuttle loom; no additional processing (sanforization, singing, skewing and mercerizing) will be done to the fabric before it is shipped to us. Most denim is sanforized and processed to preshrink the fabric and give it a cleaner, more uniform look; we elected to bypass the processing to allow the fabric to age with more character as it’s worn.
Beyond its kibata state, another factor that will affect the way the jean ages over time is how the fabric is woven. We elected to have this fabric woven at low tension on the shuttle loom, which results in denim with a rough hand that shows more irregularities in the weave from the start. The weft yarns tuft through the fabric even in raw state and the loose weave will allow the fabric to fade in an extremely unique way. We expect the fabric to streak vertically and show many complex shades of blue as the denim ages.
Here’s an example of a worn-in pair of our ST-100x jeans in our flagship 14.5oz raw indigo selvedge denim next to a brand new pair. Most clothing in the world is produced to look its best when brand new. We consider and engineer our jeans to look just as good when they’re beat up as when they’re new (and every phase in between).
Most jeans utilize pocket bag fabrics that weigh 3-4oz./square yard. Ours comes in at a whopping 8.3oz – overkill for some perhaps, but we figured that one of the highest stress areas of a jean deserves a beefy fabric that will withstand repeated abuse.
The selvedge detail on the fly isn’t functional nor is it meant to be seen by anyone but the wearer, but we like having it there as a little personal touch. We’ve also added a hidden selvedge detail inside the coin pocket as well.
All of our hardware is produced by YKK in North America. The washer and burr style rivets that we use allow for a bit of denim to peek through when punched. We contrast the vintage style of the rivets by using a more contemporary gunmetal finish.
We’ve tested several styles of buttons over the years and these are by far the best both in aesthetics and function. We use an open top button with a two-prong backing that prevents button rotation and pull-through. The open top or “donut” style button allows you to easily see that the backing has been fastened securely.
Six years ago, we came across a small Portland-based company making leather goods out of natural tan English Bridle leather, and proceeded to order a belt and a lanyard from them. We loved the quality and story, and reached out to see if they’d be interested in making leather patches for our jeans. We released our first run of jeans in 2008 with Tanner Goods leather patches on them, and they still make them for us to this day. What we love most about the patches is that they age alongside the jeans: as the denim wears out and lightens up over time, the leather patch darkens beautifully and softens up.
All our jeans feature chain-stitched hems; they’re not any stronger than top-stitched hems, but we like using them because that’s the way vintage jeans used to be hemmed – a nice detail to let customers know that we put thought into every stitch that’s utilized on the jean.
See the original article on Hypebeast.
The Class Room Spring/Summer 2014
Shirt: Our Legacy
Photo credit: VRMTpro
Shirt: Our Legacy
Shorts: Rogue Territory
Socks: Norse Projects
#LifeStyleClass - “It’s good to know your limits.”
Summer Style When You’re Not Gary Cooper
I don’t know if you spend much time on clothing forums, but on the classic men’s style side, things usually go like this: an argument erupts, a bunch of random strangers weigh in, some vociferous poster throws down a 1930s illustration from Apparel Arts or a photo of the Duke of Windsor, and everyone simmers down. Those images are basically what pass for reason and authority on such forums. If you had enough of them, you could be some kind of final arbiter for these people – like a Biblical judge, but hopefully in a judicial robe once worn by Edward VIII.
Every time someone appeals to these images, I’m reminded of “The Art of Wearing Clothes” by George Frazier, which is the single best article I’ve ever read on men’s style. In it, Frazier wrote this of Cary Grant (a style god among style gods):
Although Grant, who is fifty-six, favors such abominations as large tie knots and claims to have originated the square-style breast-pocket handkerchief, he is so extraordinarily attractive that he looks good in practically anything.
And it’s true, some men are attractive enough to simply wear whatever they want. Take Gary Cooper, for example. The first photo is one of my favorite images for summer. Cooper is seen here wearing a guayabera – a loose, four-pocket style of shirt with a straight bottom hem. According to lore, the style was first widely adopted in Cuba during the colonial period before spreading quickly throughout Latin America, where it was worn to both informal and formal gatherings. Jesse wrote about them last year after he had one made at Ramon Puig in Florida (where there’s a large Cuban community).
Cooper looks great in his unusual guayabera, short shorts, and ankle laced espadrilles, but he’s also Gary Cooper. For a non-Gary-Cooper-looking guy like me, I’d rather take John Wanye’s ensemble next to him – loose linen pants, a more traditional four-pocket guayabera, and a pair of creped sole shoes. Or better yet? Gary Cooper’s very, very simple style in the second photo: a white t-shirt and comfortable fitting trousers with camp pockets, just for style sake.
It’s good to know your limits.
We’re kicking off spring with some new goods from Rogue Territory. Rogue Territory needs no introduction by now and this season we’ve added to our offerings. Along with the heavily anticipated Brown Chambray Jumper Shirt we’ve also decided to bring in more bottoms such as the RK Canvas Pant in Navy as well as the Ar-G and Officer Trousers. Check out the product in store and online very soon!
.@rogueterritory SS delivery 1 now available in-store, including chambray and denim buttondown shirts, Officer Trousers, AR-G Trouser, and Canvas Stantons. | pics courtesy of @rogueterritory | #LifeStyleClass #TheClassRoom #menswear #Houston